We had some discussion of late about the idea of creating the opposite of the Lou-Roc Award, given to an owner who brings a diner back from destruction or desecration. If we stayed true-to-form, we'd name it after a diner that exemplifies this degree of preservation, and to me, the most obvious choice would be Lamy's Diner, now located at the Ford Museum in Dearborn, Michigan. Unfortunately — and with apologies to Mr. Lamy — I'm not crazy about the name's other connotations.

Dan Rundell describes the task of renovating a 1920s vintage diner.

However, if I did create such an award, Dan Rundell might get the first one. In 1990, he purchased the Durham Diner located in Durham, Connecticut after a small fire had closed it for good after about seventy years of service. Having only just started Roadside a few months before, I managed to catch one hazy glimpse of this diner, early one evening as the sun hovered over the horizon. I couldn't see much through the streaky windows, but I remember the enamel-coated stool bases I hadn't seen before or since. Soon after, Dan Rundell carted the diner away and sequestered it from the world in his barn and workshop, beginning a slow and steady restoration.

Contrary to what some may think, I don't relish bestowing Lou-Roc awards, but it never fails to amaze (and depress) me how little people appreciate the good works of others. Diners, left alone, work as near-perfect food-service structures loaded with built-in charm, needing of no further enhancements. None. Any attempts to embellish eventually begets a boatload of regret. And if the perpetrator never comes to experience that regret, then I feel safe in saying that they never belonged in the restaurant business in the first place.

The new family behind the Miss Adams Diner in Adams, Massachusetts. Left to right: Ric Belair, Don Hardaker, Samantha Hollland, Leanna Tellidira, Rikki Belair, and Philomene Belair.

Hot Metal Diner with Wendy & Her Waitresses from Rick Sebak on Vimeo.

A quick visit to the Hot Metal Diner in West Mifflin, Pennsylvania, where Wendy Betten and her saucy servers dish out some wonderful food and lots of playful attitude. Meet you there in the morning?